How can I describe the Oodnadatta Track? I won’t try here – I’ll see if I can write something else that tries to capture that magic.
But… as context to William Creek, let’s try to paint a picture.
It’s a tough drive. There are warnings everywhere about what you should and shouldn’t do (like never leave your vehicle). The roads are dirt, rocky and rough in parts and endlessly corrugated (bang bang bang bang – 4 times a second). The landscape is somewhere between the moon and Mars. It looks dangerous, it feels dangerous. It is, I guess. (But, let me stress, it was one of the greatest experiences of my life!)
Geoff and I had a 250km drive through this nothingness, planning to get to William Creek. We had a plane to catch – literally. At William Creek airport.
William Creek. A pub, a runway, 3 buildings and a caravan park. Small pickings after a tough drive…
But… Walking into the William Creek pub is akin to walking into the familiar home of an old friend. Everything seemed to be in its right place – everything felt right. At the bar, Manon and Lea, two 20-something French girls, welcomed us and got us a coffee. People wandered in and out, everyone sharing a greeting and a ‘how are ya’ as they went by. A couple we met in Marree, James and Sam, arrived and we became a party of 4. Wonderful.
Geoff and I had a flight booked – a 6 seater 90 min loop over Lake Eyre. Our pilot, Matt, talked a lot about what we were seeing, but also about William Creek. His boss, Trev, landed a plane on the main street 35 odd years ago. Basically, he never left. He owns most of the town now, along with 30 odd aircraft he has accumulated. I chatted to him briefly – just a laid back, kind, warm gentleman.
And if I needed any more descriptors for William Creek, I think I just used them. It is a laid back, kind, warm, gentle kind of place.
I hope you can get there – it wraps itself around you.
In the morning before we left, Geoff and I had a round of desert golf with James and Sam. A Ryder Cup event – Syd v Melb, Aust v NZ… After a tough couple of rounds (4 fairways and 2 greens) we finished all square. Just as well as James brought his glove along – grounds for disqualification in my desert golf rule book.
I’m not sure I’ve done William Creek justice in this note. I’ve tried. It was very special.